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CairoHurghadaSharm el-SheikhGizaLuxorAswanAlexandriaSheikh Zayed & 6th OctoberSinaiMarsa Alam & the Red SeaFayoumThe oases and the Western DesertMarsa Matrouh and SiwaThe Delta and the north coast
Monuments & sitesOutings & activitiesFamily outingsRestaurantsNature & downtimeCafés & tea housesShoppingWhat's newNightlife
€€€€€€
4.5+4+
  • A palm-lined corniche along the Suez Canal, a tug in the distance.

    The corniche cafés of Ismailia

    Tea beside the Suez Canal, watching 400-metre container ships go by.

    The Delta and the north coastIsmailia, Suez Canal

    € BudgetBudget
  • Three coloured-glass lanterns hanging beneath a red and purple fabric canopy.

    Abou El Sid

    Egyptian cooking served in a dark oriental salon, cushions and lanterns included.

    CairoZamalek

    €€€ High endWhere locals go

  • Felfela

    Foul, taameya and salads in a grotto-like room, steps from Tahrir square.

    CairoDowntown

    € BudgetVegan options
  • Chunks of meat sizzling in a large frying pan, steam rising.

    Kebdet El Prince

    Our favourite

    The king of Alexandrian-style liver, served on pavement tables until the middle of the night.

    CairoImbaba

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • Golden pieces of poultry on the grill, above the flames.

    Farahat

    Stuffed pigeons grilled in the street, over braziers, for decades.

    GizaDokki

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • Two peppers stuffed with minced meat in tomato sauce on a white plate.

    Fasahet Somaya

    Off the beaten track

    Home cooking, served in a tiny room, with the day's menu and nothing else.

    CairoDowntown

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • Three kofta skewers on flatbread with grilled vegetables, tomato salad and a red sauce.

    Taboula

    Levantine mezze in a vaulted cellar, close to the Corniche.

    CairoGarden City

    €€ Mid-rangeVegan options
  • Three whole chickens browning on the spit, lined up over the heat.

    Andrea Mariouteya

    Charcoal-grilled chicken in a garden, on the edge of Cairo, since the 1960s.

    GizaMariouteya road, Giza

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly

  • Mohamed Ahmed

    Alexandria's breakfast: foul, taameya and eggs, in a room that never empties.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    € BudgetVegan options
  • A market stall piled with small fresh red mullet.

    Abou Ashraf

    Fish picked off the ice, grilled in the alley, eaten at plastic tables.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • The columns of Luxor Temple, floodlit gold against the night sky.

    Al Sahaby Lane

    A rooftop terrace above the souk, with the illuminated Luxor temple as a backdrop.

    LuxorEast bank, Luxor

    €€ Mid-rangeRooftop
  • The sun sets over the Nile, the town in silhouette on the far bank.

    Panorama

    A simple terrace on the corniche, to dine while the feluccas come home.

    AswanCorniche, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeNile view
  • Ochre vaulted houses and blue-painted terraces backing onto the hillside.

    Nubian House

    A Nubian dinner on the west bank, in a house painted blue and ochre.

    AswanGharb Soheil, Aswan

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Brown dates in a wooden bowl and on a wooden spoon, set on a pale plank table.

    Abdu

    Siwa's canteen since the 1980s: tagines, dates and Siwan pizzas.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSiwa

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • Two whole fish laid out on crushed ice at a stall.

    El Masrien

    Fish by weight in the Old Market, half the price of Naama Bay.

    Sharm el-SheikhOld Market, Sharm el-Sheikh

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Bamboo benches spread with striped mattresses and cushions, set right on the sand facing the sea.

    Dahab's seafront tables

    Eating with your feet in the sand, a metre from the reef, watching divers come back.

    SinaiAssalah, Dahab

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view

  • Wekalet el-Balah

    The market of fabric by the metre, second-hand clothes and curtains: Cairo dresses here.

    CairoBoulaq

    € BudgetWhere locals go

  • Attaba market

    The centre's biggest street market: everything is sold here, and everything is shouted.

    CairoAttaba, Downtown

    € BudgetWhere locals go
  • Gold sets lined up on their busts, in the window

    The gold market (Sagha)

    The Khan's goldsmiths, where gold is sold by the gram and the work is charged separately.

    CairoKhan el-Khalili

    €€€ High endHandmade
  • Hand-blown glass perfume bottles, twisted with colour, set on a glass shelf.

    Khan Misr Touloun

    An Egyptian craft shop facing the Ibn Tulun mosque, with no haggling and no pressure.

    CairoIbn Tulun, Darb el-Ahmar

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • Coiled baskets with conical lids, in coloured geometric patterns.

    Fair Trade Egypt

    Crafts from rural cooperatives, at marked prices, with the workshop's name on the label.

    CairoZamalek

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • A large chased silver medallion hung with flower-shaped drops.

    Nomad Gallery

    Bedouin jewellery and Nubian silver, in a Zamalek gallery-flat.

    CairoZamalek

    €€€ High endHandmade
  • A crowded bookshop, books piled on the tables and up to the shelves at the back.

    Oum El Dounia

    Bookshop and crafts on the first floor of a Talaat Harb building, facing the Egyptian Museum.

    CairoDowntown

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade
  • Rows of leather-bound books, raised bands and gilded titles.

    Abd El Zaher, bookbinders

    Off the beaten track

    Cairo's last hand bookbinding workshop, behind the al-Azhar mosque.

    CairoAl-Azhar, Darb el-Ahmar

    €€ Mid-rangeHandmade