• Al-Azhar Park

    Our favourite

    Thirty hectares of green laid over five centuries of rubble, facing the Citadel.

    CairoDarb el-Ahmar

    4.6Ratingour own rating BudgetSunset
  • El-Fishawy Café

    Unmissable

    Cairo's oldest café, open without interruption since the late 18th century.

    CairoKhan el-Khalili

    4.3Ratingour own rating BudgetHistoric venue
  • The El-Hussein mosque, on the square the cafés look onto

    The cafés of al-Hussein

    Not an address but a habit: chairs out on the square, a tea, a shisha, at any hour.

    CairoAl-Hussein, Gamaliya

    BudgetOpen late
  • A pierced lantern, a teapot and a glass of mint tea on a brass tray, among wooden café chairs.

    Zahret el-Bustan

    Our favourite

    The ahwa of students, poets and insomniacs, in an alley behind Talaat Harb.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A wooden king and pawns on a chessboard, a game under way.

    El Horreya

    A vast room with bare walls where tea and beer have been served at the same tables for decades.

    CairoBab el-Louk, Downtown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • An alley lined with low stools and small tables

    The ahwas of El Borsa

    Two pedestrian lanes entirely covered in chairs: Cairo's largest open-air café.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A cappuccino in a thick cup on a wooden board, with biscuits, coffee beans and cinnamon.

    Simonds

    The counter where Zamalek has taken its cappuccino standing up since 1898.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetBest in the morning
  • Scoops of strawberry ice cream in white dishes, surrounded by fresh strawberries.

    Mandarine Koueider

    Buffalo-milk ice cream and oriental pastries, on a Zamalek pavement since 1928.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • The cafés of Street 9

    Maadi's shopping street, its terraces and its pavement ahwas.

    CairoMaadi

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A large tray of baklava being dusted with ground pistachio at the counter.

    El Abd

    The patisserie where you eat standing on the pavement, and where the queue is part of the pleasure.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The ahwas of Sayeda Zeinab

    The popular cafés around the mosque, where Cairo gathers after evening prayer.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Rows of puff-pastry cream horns.

    Tseppas

    A patisserie of Greek origin, in Cairo since the beginning of the last century.

    CairoSeveral addresses across Cairo

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • The Nile at dusk, the Cairo Tower and a lit-up boat

    The cafés of the Giza corniche

    Plastic chairs facing the river, a tea, and the best view-for-money in Greater Cairo.

    GizaNile corniche, Giza

    BudgetNile view
  • Unfired clay pots drying on a workshop bench.

    The cafés of Tunis village

    Terraces above Lake Qarun, in the potters' village.

    FayoumTunis village, Lake Qarun

    BudgetBest in the morning
  • Roasted coffee beans spilling out of a burlap sack.

    Sofianopoulo Coffee Store

    A Greek roaster in Alexandria where you drink your coffee standing, in front of the sacks of beans.

    AlexandriaAttarine, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • A shot of espresso runs from the machine into a small white cup at the counter.

    Brazilian Coffee Store

    A 1929 counter where coffee is drunk standing, in three minutes, as in Naples.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Tables and chairs on a deck, right at the water

    The Corniche cafés

    Tea facing the Mediterranean, on chairs set between pavement and sea wall.

    AlexandriaCorniche, Alexandria

    BudgetSea view
  • An alley lit by lanterns, tables set out for the evening

    The cafés of Luxor souk

    Ahwas between the stalls, where the traders themselves go for tea.

    LuxorEast bank, Luxor

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The cafés of the Aswan corniche

    Tea beside the calmest stretch of the Nile in Egypt, with feluccas gliding past.

    AswanCorniche, Aswan

    BudgetNile view
  • Cushions and low benches under hanging fabrics

    The cafés of Assalah

    Our favourite

    Cushions set at the water's edge, where a whole day passes without you noticing.

    SinaiAssalah, Dahab

    BudgetSea view
  • The cafés of the Old Market

    Sharm's old quarter: bazaars, ahwas and grills, far from the Naama Bay hotels.

    Sharm el-SheikhSharm el-Sheikh

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The cafés of Siwa square

    Morning tea under the palms, at the foot of the Shali fortress.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaSiwa

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The cafés of Bawiti

    The compulsory stop before the White Desert: tea, fuel and last supplies.

    The oases and the Western DesertBawiti, Bahariya Oasis

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A steaming glass of hot tea standing on a wooden table.

    The cafés of Mut

    Evening in Dakhla: a few tables on the square, tea, and a silence the city never has.

    The oases and the Western DesertMut, Dakhla Oasis

    BudgetWhere locals go