• The Friday Market

    Cairo's flea market: whatever the city threw out, sold again on a Friday morning.

    CairoSayyida Aisha

    BudgetBest in the morning
  • Aswan souk

    Our favourite

    One long covered street a block back from the river: hibiscus, Nubian basketry, spices.

    AswanSouk

    BudgetHandmade
  • Cones of spices in large metal basins.

    El Dahar — the old souk

    Unmissable

    The quarter from before the hotels: spices, copper, leather, shisha — and bargaining as the common language.

    HurghadaEl Dahar, Hurghada

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Roasted coffee beans spilling out of a burlap sack.

    Sofianopoulo Coffee Store

    A Greek roaster in Alexandria where you drink your coffee standing, in front of the sacks of beans.

    AlexandriaAttarine, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The cafés of the Old Market

    Sharm's old quarter: bazaars, ahwas and grills, far from the Naama Bay hotels.

    Sharm el-SheikhSharm el-Sheikh

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Wekalet el-Balah

    The market of fabric by the metre, second-hand clothes and curtains: Cairo dresses here.

    CairoBoulaq

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Attaba market

    The centre's biggest street market: everything is sold here, and everything is shouted.

    CairoAttaba, Downtown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A fruit stall loaded to the edge: pineapples, papayas, pomegranates, oranges and bananas, prices handwritten on scraps of paper.

    Bab el-Louk market

    Downtown's food market: fruit, cheese, spices and fishmongers under a hall.

    CairoBab el-Louk, Downtown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The Muski

    The shopping street linking Attaba to Khan el-Khalili, where Cairo buys everything.

    CairoMuski, Islamic Cairo

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The bookshops of Talaat Harb

    Downtown's Arabic bookshop windows, and the second-hand stalls on the pavement.

    CairoDowntown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Wooden cages stacked one on top of another, each with a bird behind its bars.

    The bird market of Sayeda Zeinab

    Off the beaten track

    A Friday morning market selling birds, pigeons and poultry, as it always has.

    CairoSayeda Zeinab

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Rolls of fabric in every colour, stacked one on top of another.

    Zanket el-Settat

    "The women's lane": a one-metre-wide alley, packed from morning to night.

    AlexandriaManshiya, Alexandria

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Crates of silver fish on the stall

    The Anfoushi fish market

    The fishing port's auction at dawn, before the city wakes.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Luxor souk

    The souk's covered street: spices, galabiyas, statuettes and a great deal of bargaining.

    LuxorEast bank, Luxor

    BudgetHandmade
  • Hand-woven baskets with their handles, stacked one against another.

    Nubian crafts in Gharb Soheil

    Woven baskets, necklaces and spices sold in the painted houses of the Nubian village.

    AswanGharb Soheil, Aswan

    BudgetHandmade
  • The bazaars of Masbat

    Bedouin jewellery, textiles and dive gear, along the promenade.

    SinaiMasbat, Dahab

    BudgetHandmade
  • The fish market of Lake Burullus

    Lagoon fish sold straight from the boats, in the northern Delta.

    The Delta and the north coastBurullus

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Open sacks of spices and grains on the stall

    Marsa Matruh market

    The coastal town's market: figs, dates, Bedouin wool and beach goods.

    Marsa Matrouh and SiwaMarsa Matruh

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Kharga market

    Dates, baskets and pottery from the oasis, in the Western Desert's largest town.

    The oases and the Western DesertKharga

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A pointed brick archway and old wooden doors in a narrow street.

    Esna souk

    A restored souk street around the temple, between old shops and a caravanserai.

    LuxorEsna, south of Luxor

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Stacks of second-hand books and textbooks piled to the top, packed tight against one another.

    The Azbakeya book market

    Our favourite

    Dozens of second-hand book stalls, a Cairo institution for a century.

    CairoAzbakeya, Downtown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A tray of syrup pastries behind the display glass

    Tanta's sweet shops

    Roasted chickpeas and mawlid halva, made here for generations.

    The Delta and the north coastTanta

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A stall loaded with brassware, trays and trinkets

    The shops of Port Said

    The canal's old free zone: Egyptians still come to buy cheaper here.

    The Delta and the north coastPort Said

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A mound of dried chillies in a woven tray, beside a basket of turmeric roots.

    Aswan's Nubian market

    Pyramids of spices, karkadeh, baskets and perfumes, over a kilometre of street.

    AswanSharia el-Souk, Aswan

    BudgetHandmade