• Alexandria Corniche

    Our favourite

    The whole city's evening walk: grilled corn, salted lupins, anglers on the parapet.

    AlexandriaEastern Harbour

    BudgetSea view
  • Antoniadis Gardens

    The garden of a nineteenth-century Greek villa: ruled walks, marble statues, old palms.

    AlexandriaSmouha

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Shallalat Gardens

    A sunken garden wrapped around what is left of Alexandria's medieval city wall.

    AlexandriaShallalat

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Alexandria Zoo

    An early twentieth-century pleasure garden in Nouzha: come for the palm walks.

    AlexandriaNouzha

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • Roasted coffee beans spilling out of a burlap sack.

    Sofianopoulo Coffee Store

    A Greek roaster in Alexandria where you drink your coffee standing, in front of the sacks of beans.

    AlexandriaAttarine, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • A shot of espresso runs from the machine into a small white cup at the counter.

    Brazilian Coffee Store

    A 1929 counter where coffee is drunk standing, in three minutes, as in Naples.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Tables and chairs on a deck, right at the water

    The Corniche cafés

    Tea facing the Mediterranean, on chairs set between pavement and sea wall.

    AlexandriaCorniche, Alexandria

    BudgetSea view
  • Mohamed Ahmed

    Alexandria's breakfast: foul, taameya and eggs, in a room that never empties.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetVegan options
  • Rolls of fabric in every colour, stacked one on top of another.

    Zanket el-Settat

    "The women's lane": a one-metre-wide alley, packed from morning to night.

    AlexandriaManshiya, Alexandria

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Crates of silver fish on the stall

    The Anfoushi fish market

    The fishing port's auction at dawn, before the city wakes.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Grilled squid and a prawn, with a roasted lemon wedge.

    Cap d'Or

    Our favourite

    An Art Nouveau tavern serving beer and prawns for a century.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Spitfire Bar

    Alexandria's sailors' bar, walls covered in stickers and badges from all over the world.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The taverns of central Alexandria

    The city's last Greek and Italian bars, within three streets of each other.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Bibliotheca's museums

    Three museums and a planetarium tucked beneath the great reading room.

    AlexandriaChatby, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Pearl necklaces, gold brooches and chased silver boxes heaped on a black background.

    The Royal Jewellery Museum

    The jewels of Mohamed Ali's family, in a palace with extraordinary stained glass.

    AlexandriaZizinia, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Cavafy Museum

    Off the beaten track

    The Alexandrian Greek poet's flat, as he wrote "Ithaka" in it.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Mustafa Kamel tombs

    Off the beaten track

    Four Greco-Roman rock-cut tombs, in a neighbourhood garden.

    AlexandriaRushdy, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Kom el-Dikka

    Egypt's only Roman theatre, with its baths and ancient lecture halls.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • An ancient mosaic floor with geometric patterns, worn by time.

    The Villa of the Birds

    Off the beaten track

    A Roman house whose mosaics show nine birds, protected under a shelter.

    AlexandriaKom el-Dikka, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Alexandria tram

    Our favourite

    Africa's oldest tram, overhauled after a hundred and fifty years of service.

    AlexandriaFrom Raml to Victoria, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Blue fishing boats moored on both sides of a canal lined with houses.

    El Max

    Off the beaten track

    A fishing village built on a canal, nicknamed Alexandria's Venice.

    AlexandriaEl Max, west of Alexandria

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • The Montazah gardens

    A hundred and fifty hectares of pines and palms by the sea, around the royal palace.

    AlexandriaMontazah, Alexandria

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • An orange-and-white striped beach parasol seen from below against a blue sky.

    Maamoura beach

    The Alexandrians' family beach, sheltered and shallow.

    AlexandriaMaamoura, east of Alexandria

    BudgetSea view
  • Three glasses of fruit juice — strawberry, orange, lime — on a wooden table.

    Farghaly

    Fresh juices, ice cream and fruit salads, in overflowing displays.

    AlexandriaAlexandria and Cairo

    BudgetBudget