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The whole city's evening walk: grilled corn, salted lupins, anglers on the parapet.
AlexandriaEastern Harbour
The garden of a nineteenth-century Greek villa: ruled walks, marble statues, old palms.
AlexandriaSmouha
A sunken garden wrapped around what is left of Alexandria's medieval city wall.
AlexandriaShallalat
An early twentieth-century pleasure garden in Nouzha: come for the palm walks.
AlexandriaNouzha
A Greek roaster in Alexandria where you drink your coffee standing, in front of the sacks of beans.
AlexandriaAttarine, Alexandria
A 1929 counter where coffee is drunk standing, in three minutes, as in Naples.
AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria
Tea facing the Mediterranean, on chairs set between pavement and sea wall.
AlexandriaCorniche, Alexandria
Alexandria's breakfast: foul, taameya and eggs, in a room that never empties.
"The women's lane": a one-metre-wide alley, packed from morning to night.
AlexandriaManshiya, Alexandria
The fishing port's auction at dawn, before the city wakes.
AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria
An Art Nouveau tavern serving beer and prawns for a century.
Alexandria's sailors' bar, walls covered in stickers and badges from all over the world.
The city's last Greek and Italian bars, within three streets of each other.
Three museums and a planetarium tucked beneath the great reading room.
AlexandriaChatby, Alexandria
The jewels of Mohamed Ali's family, in a palace with extraordinary stained glass.
AlexandriaZizinia, Alexandria
The Alexandrian Greek poet's flat, as he wrote "Ithaka" in it.
Four Greco-Roman rock-cut tombs, in a neighbourhood garden.
AlexandriaRushdy, Alexandria
Egypt's only Roman theatre, with its baths and ancient lecture halls.
A Roman house whose mosaics show nine birds, protected under a shelter.
AlexandriaKom el-Dikka, Alexandria
Africa's oldest tram, overhauled after a hundred and fifty years of service.
AlexandriaFrom Raml to Victoria, Alexandria
A fishing village built on a canal, nicknamed Alexandria's Venice.
AlexandriaEl Max, west of Alexandria
A hundred and fifty hectares of pines and palms by the sea, around the royal palace.
AlexandriaMontazah, Alexandria
The Alexandrians' family beach, sheltered and shallow.
AlexandriaMaamoura, east of Alexandria
Fresh juices, ice cream and fruit salads, in overflowing displays.
AlexandriaAlexandria and Cairo