• Pearl necklaces, gold brooches and chased silver boxes heaped on a black background.

    The Royal Jewellery Museum

    The jewels of Mohamed Ali's family, in a palace with extraordinary stained glass.

    AlexandriaZizinia, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Cavafy Museum

    Off the beaten track

    The Alexandrian Greek poet's flat, as he wrote "Ithaka" in it.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Mustafa Kamel tombs

    Off the beaten track

    Four Greco-Roman rock-cut tombs, in a neighbourhood garden.

    AlexandriaRushdy, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Kom el-Dikka

    Egypt's only Roman theatre, with its baths and ancient lecture halls.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • An ancient mosaic floor with geometric patterns, worn by time.

    The Villa of the Birds

    Off the beaten track

    A Roman house whose mosaics show nine birds, protected under a shelter.

    AlexandriaKom el-Dikka, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Stacks of second-hand books and textbooks piled to the top, packed tight against one another.

    The Azbakeya book market

    Our favourite

    Dozens of second-hand book stalls, a Cairo institution for a century.

    CairoAzbakeya, Downtown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A chequerboard brick façade in black and white, pierced by wooden mashrabiya screens.

    The Ottoman houses of Rosetta

    Off the beaten track

    Some twenty houses in red and black brick, unique in Egypt.

    The Delta and the north coastRosetta (Rashid)

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • A painted wooden sarcophagus, covered with hieroglyphs and two wedjat eyes, on its plinth in a museum gallery.

    Port Said National Museum

    From prehistory to the canal, Egypt told facing the Mediterranean.

    The Delta and the north coastPort Said

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Port Fouad

    Off the beaten track

    A town in Asia ten minutes away by ferry, with wooden villas and gardens.

    The Delta and the north coastPort Fouad, Port Said

    BudgetSea view
  • A wooden jetty running from the sand out into the sea.

    Ras el-Bar

    The spit where the Nile meets the Mediterranean, and the two waters visibly touch.

    The Delta and the north coastDamietta

    BudgetSea view
  • Ibn Luqman's house

    Off the beaten track

    The house where Saint Louis was imprisoned after the Seventh Crusade's defeat.

    The Delta and the north coastMansoura

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • A mosque strung with lights at night, a dense crowd filling the square in front of it.

    The mawlid of Sayyid al-Badawi

    Off the beaten track

    Egypt's largest Sufi gathering: a week of sleepless nights in Tanta.

    The Delta and the north coastTanta

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A tray of syrup pastries behind the display glass

    Tanta's sweet shops

    Roasted chickpeas and mawlid halva, made here for generations.

    The Delta and the north coastTanta

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Tanis

    Off the beaten track

    A field of toppled obelisks in the Delta, and intact royal tombs.

    The Delta and the north coastSan el-Hagar, Sharqia

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Bubastis

    Off the beaten track

    The city of the cat goddess Bastet, and its cemetery of mummified cats.

    The Delta and the north coastZagazig, Sharqia

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Feluccas under sail on the Nile at sunset, in front of an inhabited bank.

    The Damietta corniche

    The Nile a few kilometres from its mouth, lined with cafés and boatyards.

    The Delta and the north coastDamietta

    BudgetNile view
  • A stall loaded with brassware, trays and trinkets

    The shops of Port Said

    The canal's old free zone: Egyptians still come to buy cheaper here.

    The Delta and the north coastPort Said

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A loaded container ship seen head-on, cutting through open water.

    The Suez corniche

    Off the beaten track

    The canal's southern entrance, where ships queue for their turn.

    The Delta and the north coastSuez

    BudgetSea view
  • The Delta's bathhouses

    Off the beaten track

    Neighbourhood hammams still working, far from hotel spas.

    The Delta and the north coastTanta and Mansoura

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Identical rental bicycles, lined up side by side.

    Cairo Bike

    Public bike hire in Cairo — the idea nobody thought possible.

    CairoDowntown, Zamalek, Garden City

    BudgetBudget
  • A passenger boat moored on the Nile, in front of a palm-lined bank.

    The Nile river bus

    Our favourite

    Crossing Cairo by river for the price of a bus ticket.

    CairoFrom Old Cairo to Warraq

    BudgetNile view
  • Three visitors sitting with their backs to us on a wooden bench, facing a large yellow wall in an exhibition room.

    Cairo's art galleries

    A contemporary art scene showing for free, in flats and workshops.

    CairoZamalek, Downtown, Garden City

    BudgetBudget
  • The Alexandria tram

    Our favourite

    Africa's oldest tram, overhauled after a hundred and fifty years of service.

    AlexandriaFrom Raml to Victoria, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • A split granite block standing in the middle of a stone quarry.

    Aswan's granite quarries

    The worksite that produced the obelisks and colossi of all Egypt.

    AswanAswan

    BudgetHistoric venue