• Bab al-Azab

    Off the beaten track

    The Citadel's lower gate, restored and reopened after two centuries closed.

    CairoCitadel, Darb el-Ahmar

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The specialty coffee wave

    In five years, Cairo has gone from instant coffee to single-origin filter — and the roasters are Egyptian.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, Tagamoa

    €€ Mid-rangeTerrace
  • Smooth hummus, drizzled with olive oil and scattered with seeds.

    Egyptian cooking, reworked

    Koshari plated, molokheya on a tasting menu: Cairo's new table.

    CairoZamalek, Downtown, New Cairo

    €€€ High endWhere locals go
  • New Cairo's food halls

    Twenty counters under one roof: the format that replaced the single restaurant.

    CairoNew Cairo / Tagamoa

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Cairo's rooftops

    The city has started looking at its roofs — and putting bars on them.

    CairoDowntown, Zamalek, Garden City

    €€€ High endRooftop
  • The Nile bank laid out in planted terraces, bougainvillea in flower in front of the river.

    The renovated Nile corniche

    Kilometres of riverbank given back to walkers, with benches, lighting and cafés.

    CairoFrom Qasr el-Nil bridge to Maadi

    BudgetNile view
  • The Cairo monorail

    An elevated line above Greater Cairo — the ride is worth it for the view.

    CairoEast and west of Greater Cairo

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • A white dome and stone minarets of Islamic Cairo, above the city's rooftops.

    The City of the Dead

    Off the beaten track

    A necropolis kilometres long where people have lived among the tombs for centuries.

    CairoQarafa, Islamic Cairo

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Rhoda nilometer

    Off the beaten track

    A well from 861 that measured the flood and set the tax for all Egypt.

    CairoRhoda island

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Magra el-Oyoun aqueduct

    Off the beaten track

    Three kilometres of Mamluk arches that carried Nile water up to the Citadel.

    CairoFustat

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The red driving wheels of an old steam locomotive, with its coupling rod.

    The Railway Museum

    Off the beaten track

    The khedives' locomotives, including Ismail Pasha's gilded saloon carriage.

    CairoRamses station

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Aisha Fahmy Palace

    A 1907 palace on the Nile, now an art centre — painted ceilings and original parquet.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Mahmoud Mokhtar Museum

    The sculptor of "Egypt's Awakening", in a pavilion designed for his work.

    CairoZamalek

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • A whole tree trunk turned to stone, lying on desert gravel.

    The Petrified Forest of Maadi

    Off the beaten track

    Tree trunks turned to stone thirty million years ago, on Cairo's doorstep.

    CairoSouth-east of Maadi

    BudgetBest in the morning
  • Manasterly Palace

    An Ottoman pavilion at water level on the Nile, now an Arabic music hall.

    CairoRhoda island

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • Stacks of second-hand books and textbooks piled to the top, packed tight against one another.

    The Azbakeya book market

    Our favourite

    Dozens of second-hand book stalls, a Cairo institution for a century.

    CairoAzbakeya, Downtown

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • Identical rental bicycles, lined up side by side.

    Cairo Bike

    Public bike hire in Cairo — the idea nobody thought possible.

    CairoDowntown, Zamalek, Garden City

    BudgetBudget
  • A passenger boat moored on the Nile, in front of a palm-lined bank.

    The Nile river bus

    Our favourite

    Crossing Cairo by river for the price of a bus ticket.

    CairoFrom Old Cairo to Warraq

    BudgetNile view
  • Three visitors sitting with their backs to us on a wooden bench, facing a large yellow wall in an exhibition room.

    Cairo's art galleries

    A contemporary art scene showing for free, in flats and workshops.

    CairoZamalek, Downtown, Garden City

    BudgetBudget
  • A hotel room, bed made and bedside lamp lit.

    Downtown's boutique hotels

    Belle-époque buildings restored as small hotels — and their roofs open to everyone.

    CairoDowntown

    €€€ High endHistoric venue
  • Vegetables sorted into wooden crates, under the awning

    The farmers' markets

    Weekend markets where farms from Fayoum and the Delta sell direct.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, Sheikh Zayed

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • The Cairo Jazz Festival

    Three days of concerts, with Egyptian bands and guests from all over.

    CairoCairo

    €€ Mid-rangePaid entry
  • A brunch table set by a window: bread, fresh fruit, orange juice and coffee.

    The Friday brunch

    The urban ritual that has replaced the family lunch in part of Cairo.

    CairoZamalek, Maadi, New Cairo

    €€€ High endFamily-friendly
  • A gilded funerary mask and a mummy's linen wrappings, against a black background.

    The Royal Mummies Hall

    Unmissable

    Twenty Egyptian sovereigns, moved in 2021 into a hall built for them.

    CairoFustat

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue