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Alexandria's sailors' bar, walls covered in stickers and badges from all over the world.
AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria
A 1921 Italian-style auditorium, the city's finest stage.
The city's last Greek and Italian bars, within three streets of each other.
Three museums and a planetarium tucked beneath the great reading room.
AlexandriaChatby, Alexandria
The jewels of Mohamed Ali's family, in a palace with extraordinary stained glass.
AlexandriaZizinia, Alexandria
The Alexandrian Greek poet's flat, as he wrote "Ithaka" in it.
Four Greco-Roman rock-cut tombs, in a neighbourhood garden.
AlexandriaRushdy, Alexandria
Egypt's only Roman theatre, with its baths and ancient lecture halls.
A Roman house whose mosaics show nine birds, protected under a shelter.
AlexandriaKom el-Dikka, Alexandria
Africa's oldest tram, overhauled after a hundred and fifty years of service.
AlexandriaFrom Raml to Victoria, Alexandria
A fishing village built on a canal, nicknamed Alexandria's Venice.
AlexandriaEl Max, west of Alexandria
Alexandria's fish eaten where it lands, facing Nelson's bay.
AlexandriaAbu Qir, east of Alexandria
A hundred and fifty hectares of pines and palms by the sea, around the royal palace.
AlexandriaMontazah, Alexandria
The Alexandrians' family beach, sheltered and shallow.
AlexandriaMaamoura, east of Alexandria
Fresh juices, ice cream and fruit salads, in overflowing displays.
AlexandriaAlexandria and Cairo
Alexandria's fish table, run by a former singer who became a neighbourhood legend.
AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria
A Greek taverna from 1929 at the water's edge, on the Abu Qir point.
AlexandriaAbu Qir, Alexandria
A terrace above Qaitbay fort, with the whole bay in front.
An Alexandrian trattoria from the 1980s, checked tablecloths included.
Alexandrian grills in a big family room, open late.
AlexandriaCairo road, Alexandria
Neighbourhood kofta and kebab, served on a production line for decades.
AlexandriaAlexandria
A Lebanese house in the centre, open at lunchtime only, as fifty years ago.
Fish by weight with a panoramic view over the eastern bay.
AlexandriaCorniche, Alexandria
Grills and seafood facing the sea, steps from the Bibliotheca.
AlexandriaCorniche, near the Bibliotheca