• Spitfire Bar

    Alexandria's sailors' bar, walls covered in stickers and badges from all over the world.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Alexandria Opera — Sayed Darwish Theatre

    A 1921 Italian-style auditorium, the city's finest stage.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeHistoric venue
  • The taverns of central Alexandria

    The city's last Greek and Italian bars, within three streets of each other.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Bibliotheca's museums

    Three museums and a planetarium tucked beneath the great reading room.

    AlexandriaChatby, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Pearl necklaces, gold brooches and chased silver boxes heaped on a black background.

    The Royal Jewellery Museum

    The jewels of Mohamed Ali's family, in a palace with extraordinary stained glass.

    AlexandriaZizinia, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Cavafy Museum

    Off the beaten track

    The Alexandrian Greek poet's flat, as he wrote "Ithaka" in it.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Mustafa Kamel tombs

    Off the beaten track

    Four Greco-Roman rock-cut tombs, in a neighbourhood garden.

    AlexandriaRushdy, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Kom el-Dikka

    Egypt's only Roman theatre, with its baths and ancient lecture halls.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • An ancient mosaic floor with geometric patterns, worn by time.

    The Villa of the Birds

    Off the beaten track

    A Roman house whose mosaics show nine birds, protected under a shelter.

    AlexandriaKom el-Dikka, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • The Alexandria tram

    Our favourite

    Africa's oldest tram, overhauled after a hundred and fifty years of service.

    AlexandriaFrom Raml to Victoria, Alexandria

    BudgetHistoric venue
  • Blue fishing boats moored on both sides of a canal lined with houses.

    El Max

    Off the beaten track

    A fishing village built on a canal, nicknamed Alexandria's Venice.

    AlexandriaEl Max, west of Alexandria

    BudgetWhere locals go
  • A plate of small fried fish, lemon and white sauce

    The tables of Abu Qir

    Alexandria's fish eaten where it lands, facing Nelson's bay.

    AlexandriaAbu Qir, east of Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • The Montazah gardens

    A hundred and fifty hectares of pines and palms by the sea, around the royal palace.

    AlexandriaMontazah, Alexandria

    BudgetFamily-friendly
  • An orange-and-white striped beach parasol seen from below against a blue sky.

    Maamoura beach

    The Alexandrians' family beach, sheltered and shallow.

    AlexandriaMaamoura, east of Alexandria

    BudgetSea view
  • Three glasses of fruit juice — strawberry, orange, lime — on a wooden table.

    Farghaly

    Fresh juices, ice cream and fruit salads, in overflowing displays.

    AlexandriaAlexandria and Cairo

    BudgetBudget
  • A dish of large grilled prawns with lemon, garlic and tomatoes.

    Samakmak

    Our favourite

    Alexandria's fish table, run by a former singer who became a neighbourhood legend.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria

    €€€ High endWhere locals go
  • A restaurant terrace of laid tables, facing the sea.

    Zephyrion

    A Greek taverna from 1929 at the water's edge, on the Abu Qir point.

    AlexandriaAbu Qir, Alexandria

    €€€ High endSea view
  • Two whole grilled fish with lemon wedges on a metal plate.

    The Greek Club

    A terrace above Qaitbay fort, with the whole bay in front.

    AlexandriaAnfoushi, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeSea view
  • A tomato, mozzarella and basil pizza on a wooden board, one slice pulled away.

    Chez Gaby

    An Alexandrian trattoria from the 1980s, checked tablecloths included.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeAlcohol served
  • A large mixed grill platter — skewers, chops and chicken — with bread, salad and sauces.

    Balbaa Village

    Alexandrian grills in a big family room, open late.

    AlexandriaCairo road, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeFamily-friendly
  • Grilled chicken pieces lined up on flatbread with charred pepper, tomato and onion.

    Hosny

    Neighbourhood kofta and kebab, served on a production line for decades.

    AlexandriaAlexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • A mound of tabbouleh — parsley, tomato, onion and bulgur — on a white plate.

    Hassan Bleik

    Off the beaten track

    A Lebanese house in the centre, open at lunchtime only, as fifty years ago.

    AlexandriaCity centre, Alexandria

    €€ Mid-rangeWhere locals go
  • Whole red fish laid out on crushed ice.

    Fish Market

    Fish by weight with a panoramic view over the eastern bay.

    AlexandriaCorniche, Alexandria

    €€€ High endSea view
  • Meat, pepper and onion skewers on a charcoal grill.

    Tikka Grill

    Grills and seafood facing the sea, steps from the Bibliotheca.

    AlexandriaCorniche, near the Bibliotheca

    €€€ High endSea view