203 results
Everyday koshari — the neighbourhood bowl rather than the guidebook one.
CairoAbdeen
Egypt was ruled from this crag above the city for seven hundred years, and the view still earns the climb.
CairoCitadel
Cairo's largest Mamluk complex — and a mausoleum whose occupant never arrived.
CairoRumeila
Muhammad Ali's dynasty rests here — and, with it, the last Shah of Iran.
Cairo's oldest mosque still in its original form, with a minaret whose staircase runs outside.
CairoSayyida Zeinab
A furnished Ottoman house, lived in as it was, pressed against Ibn Tulun's outer wall.
Egypt's richest collection of Islamic art, down to the enamelled Mamluk mosque lamps.
CairoBab el-Khalq
A nave built over the towers of a Roman gate: hence the name, and the drop beneath the floor.
CairoOld Cairo, Fustat
The synagogue of the Cairo Geniza, whose fragments are now in Cambridge.
The largest collection of Coptic art anywhere, in a museum built against the walls of the Babylon fortress.
Tutankhamun and the royal mummies have gone elsewhere; the rest, vast, has stayed.
CairoTahrir, Downtown
Buildings, borrowed styles, a garden of rare trees — on an island in the middle of Cairo.
CairoManial, Roda Island
A concrete Hindu temple on the airport road, long left to rumour.
CairoHeliopolis
The day power left the Citadel and came down into the city.
The tea room of cosmopolitan Cairo, faded and now under restoration. Come for the decor and the story.
CairoTalaat Harb, Downtown
Downtown's café of writers and conspirators, opened in 1908.
Not an address but a habit: chairs out on the square, a tea, a shisha, at any hour.
CairoAl-Hussein, Gamaliya
Founded in 970 by the Fatimids, a place of teaching for more than a thousand years.
The southern gate of Fatimid Cairo, topped by two Mamluk minarets you can climb.
CairoDarb el-Ahmar
A madrasa, a mausoleum and a hospital from 1284, in the middle of al-Muizz street.
CairoAl-Muizz, Gamaliya
A caravanserai from 1382 turned into a labyrinth of trades. On foot, and without a watch.
CairoGamaliya
An early sixteenth-century Mamluk wikala, now a courtyard of craftspeople and musicians.
CairoAl-Azhar, Gamaliya
Three halls on Gezira island, the Cairo Symphony Orchestra — and no main hall without a jacket.
CairoGezira, Zamalek
One hundred and eighty-seven metres midstream, and the city readable at a glance. Go up at dusk.
